GUIDES
Quarantine (realistic)
Quarantine is the best prevention. But most people won’t do a perfect QT. So this guide gives both: a doable QT setup and a safer “no-QT” plan so you’re not abandoned.
The “good enough” quarantine setup
- A temporary tank/tote/pool with filtration and strong aeration
- Stable temperature (as stable as you can manage)
- Test kit: ammonia, nitrite, pH, KH
- Observation period: watch behavior, appetite, flashing, breathing
If you cannot quarantine (the real-world plan)
If you must introduce fish or treat in-pond, don’t “freehand” meds. Use a sequence and re-test water daily.
- Water first: keep ammonia/nitrite at 0; stabilize KH/pH.
- Increase aeration during any treatment.
- Don’t combine treatments unless the plan specifically says it’s safe.
Structured “shotgun” approach (best-effort)
- Confirm the pond can handle treatment (water stable, fish not in crisis).
- Use a known sequence (protozoans first, then flukes).
- Follow re-dose timing — don’t stop early.
- Reassess: if improving, stop. If not, don’t stack meds — re-check water and seek help.
See the full decision tree here: Parasites guide →
Why we still recommend quarantine
- Less stress on the pond and biofilter
- More control over dosing
- Better outcomes with fewer “mystery” problems